FOZ DO IGUASSU TO FLORIANOPOLIS

Saturday, 15 January 2011

Another day, another bus ride. Thankfully this one is just a brief 14 hour trip to the coastal city of Floripa in southern Brazil.

The 36 hour monster from Mendoza to Puerto Iguazu really made a mockery of my consistent complaints about Westrail´s six hour service from Perth to Albany 0n Boarders´ Long Weekends.

“So what´s the bus set-up like?”, I hear you ask? Well, the seats are relatively comfortable but the movies are E-Grade at best and the food is practically inedible. Give me a cheese donk from the Caltex bain-marie in Williams anyday.

Aside from the smelly gypsy sitting in front of me, this trip should be alright. Enough whinging though.

The spectacle of the Iguazu Falls justified the gigantic journey to get there. We viewed the Garganta del Diablo (the Devil´s throat) and took a boat ride under the falls itself. Probably the most exhilarating and refreshing shower i´ve had since I left Melbourne.

A dwarfed boat heading in for a shower under Iguazu

Mendoza, sitting at the foothills of the Andes, is an Argentinean city worth a visit. Renowned for its vino, the place has a small city feel. Probably because it is a small city.

The Mendozian highlight was surely the `Mr Hugos´ wine tour – an absolute doozie. Not like one of Quanny´s rip off fundraisers around the Swan Valley or Margs this one only sets you back about 70 pesos ($17). Mr Hugo himself provides you with a couple of red wine looseners, a bike, a map and away you go.

Our touring peloton was a bit like a mixed 6 pack comprising a robust Australian red (yours truly), a soft Australian white (Duncan), 2 NZ-Aussie blends (Ben & Alanna), 1 Irish cider (Mike) and a severely corked bottle of Canadian Sacred Hill (Mandy).

Five sixths of the mixed 6 pack at Mr Hugos

The simple yet effective rules of the wine were as follows:

1. Anyone to vomit = Purchases 1 bottle for the group
2. Anyone to fall off their bike = Purchase 1 bottle for the group
3. Anyone makes a negative comment/whinges = 1 skull

Irish Mike and myself opted for a tandem bike to make things more interesting. Degree of difficulty high but as a seasoned veteran of the annual Tour de Fridge, you´d back me.

What could go wrong?

Unfortunately after one too many reds at the previous night´s Asado (Argentinian BBQ), Mr Hugo´s aforementioned looseners didn´t go down so well…..but they came back up real quick and so I ended up oweing a bottle before we reached the first winery.

Wine tasting

Needless to say, we pushed on and visited a total of four wineries, tasting some quality vinos along the way. Having left the last stop, Irish Mike and I became separated from the peloton on our tandem and were seriously struggling to cycle in unison. It was like an International Rules Series on wheels, a mish-mash of Gaelic and AFL which, like our cycling, was painful to watch and struggled for momentum.

Sure enough we soon came unstuck – crashing heavily into a large watery ditch right in front of the police! Although they wouldn´t allow us to get back in the saddle, they saw the humourous side and were good enough to pose for a few happy snaps while we waited for the ever reliable Mr Hugo to come and collect our sore and soaking bodies in his ute.

A brush with the law

Mr Hugo clearly had our measure

All in all, it was good times in Mendoza and I´m expecting more ahead with Jase Baritone nee Sedgwick and Chun Davis now on their way to Floripa to rendezvous with Donisi and TB once again.

Working the parrilla

Argie barbie night

A bit of Argie bargie at the Argie barbie

BUENOS AIRES TO MENDOZA

Sunday, 9 January 2011

The second installment of BA was BAA (Bloody Awesome Aswell). While not as high-octane as the New Year period, the plan was to see a bit more of the Argentinean (or Argentine?) capital by day.

A bit on Punta del Este first though:

Despite a mild case of gastro (correct medical diagnosis: Tap Ass) taking its toll after one too many empanadas, Punta was truly excellent.

The toilet facilities were first class, generally the flush worked well and the toilet paper was just the right thickness. Toilet humor aside, the gastro was only a minor blip on my time in the Punt.

Punta is a small Uruguayan city where the River Plate meets the Atlantic. The place is crawling with wealthy Argies in the busy season who have come to holiday, surf and party.

Sting, Don & Dunc take a load off in Punta

Enjoying a caipirinha

We also discovered a couple of very cool smaller towns further along the coast, La Barra and Jose Ignacio (Uruguay’s Yallingup methinks).

The latter was also the scene for the Great Jose Ignacio Polo Debacle of 2011. Those who have an understanding of the epic four day Gibb River Road adventure last year will liken it to the Great Manning Gorge Debacle of 2010 when we drove bulk kilometres to never actually see the gorge.

On this occasion, we paid a bulk taxi fare, arrived three hours early and then couldn’t even get a ticket to the match. Dropping Adolfo Cambiaso’s name probably didn’t help either. Oh well.

So after three nights, or four if you include the one on the throne, the Punta splinter group splintered again with TB and Donisi heading north for Brazil via Punta del Diablo (must visit) while Duncan and I returned to BA.

With the Milhouse our new base, the place crawling with familiar WA faces (including fellow Keys House kid, the newlywed Stuey Shields and some good country punters) we set about round 2 with BA.

My phone is on the brink of battery breakdown just three hours into a 12 hour trip so a brief summary of Round 2 will have to suffice:

• Perusing the shops and bars amongst the leafy suburb of Palermo.
• A visit to El Diego Maradona’s La Bombonera, home of Boca Juniors FC.
• Dinner at the most recommended restaurant in BA, La Carbrera, which didn’t disappoint.
• Dinner with JK & Bec at La Cantrememberthename.
• Dinner with Dunc at Argentina’s very own sizzler, Siga La Vica. Thanks for that recommendation Lib.
• San Telmo market and an attempt at another glorious Choripan.

The battery is going folks, so am I.

Some of the best beef in BA at La Carbrera

Caminito, La Boca

The first gringo to play for Boca alongside El Diego

Inside La Bombonera

Dinner with Dunc, JK & Bec in Palermo

Buenos Aires to Mendoza
>
> The second installment of BA was BAA (Bloody Awesome Aswell) While not as high octane as the New Year period, the idea was to see a bit more of the Argentinean (or Argentine?) capital by day.
>
> A bit on Punta del Este first though:
>
> Despite a mild case of gastro (correct medical diagnosis: Tap Ass) taking it’s toll after one too many empanadas, Punta was truly excellent.
>
> The toilet facilities were first class, generally the flush worked well and the toilet paper was just the right thickness. Toilet humor aside, the gastro was only a minor blip on my time in the punt.
>
> Punta is a Uruguayan town/city where the River Plate meets the Atlantic. The place is crawling with wealthy Argies in the busy season who have come to holiday, surf and party.
>
> We also discovered a couple of very cool smaller towns further along the coast, La Barra and Jose Ignacio (Uruguay’s Yallingup methinks).
>
> The latter was also the scene for the Great Jose Ignacio Polo Debacle of 2011. Those who have an understanding of the epic 4 day Gibb River Road adventure last year will liken it to the Great Manning Gorge Debacle of 2010 when we drove bulk kilometers to never actually see the gorge.
>
> On this occasion, we paid a bulk taxi fare, arrived 3 hours early and then couldn’t even get a ticket to the match. Dropping Adolfo Cambiaso’s name probably didn’t help either. Not to worry.
>
> So after 3 nights, 4 if you include the one on the throne, the Punta splinter group splintered again with TB and Donisi heading north for Brazil while Duncan and I returned to BA.
>
> With the Milhouse our new base, the place crawling with familiar WA faces (including fellow Keys kid, the newlywed Stuey Shields an some good country punters) we set about round 2 with BA.
>
> My phone is on the brink of battery breakdown 3 hours into a 12 hour trip so a summary of Round 2 will have to suffice:
>
> Perusing the shops and bars amongst the leafy suburb of Palermo.
>
> A visit to El Diego Maradona’s La Bombonera, home of Boca Juniors FC
>
> Dinner at the most recommended restaurant in BA, La Carbrera, which didn’t disappoint.
>
> Dinner with JK & Bec at La Cantremember
>
> Dinner with Dunc at Argentina’s very own sizzler, Siga La Vica. Thanks for that recommendation Lib.
>
> San Telmo market and attempt an an obligatory Choripan
>
> Battery going folks, so am I

BUENOS AIRES TO PUNTA DEL ESTE

Sunday, 2 January 2011

After four mindnumbing nights in BA it´s time to head for the Uruguayian coast  for some beach time.

Sharing an apartment on Avenida Tony Liberatore with Ben Donisi, Tom Betlehem, Duncan Chellew, Marcus Busby and his chica, Caitlin Barker, has been a superb way to start the South American tour of duty.

The first thing about Argentina you notice is that they have no sense of time. It´s perfectly normal to rise well after midday and stay up until the sun comes up. Dinner is served about 11pm and nightclubs don´t get busy until 3am.

But there is no point fighting it so the best thing to do is embrace `Argentime´.

The focus of the first stint in BA was centred around food and the nightlife. We have enjoyed copious amounts of Quilmes, loaded up on Lomo (incredible fillet steak), embraced the empanada and, of course, celebrated New Year´s Eve Day in style at superdisco Pascha.

Night one in BA was also one to remember/one that will be difficult to shake from the memory for a while but I will blame  our crazy cabbie,  ´can you hear the sirens´ Fernando, for that.

If the first four nights of this adventure are a taste of what´s to come in the next four months then I am in for a good time.

We have now departed our apartment in Recoleta and it´s across the River Plate to Colonia via ferry before we jump aboard a bus to Punta Del Este.

From all reports , Punta is the Cote d´Azur of South America where wealthy Argies go to splash their cash. Hopefully after this trip to the Riviera I won´t be making an insurance claim.

 

Residents of our Recoleta abode ahead of NYE in BA

 

Finally here is a little track which received some heavy airplay during the first few nights: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8D08WuHNTE

MELBOURNE TO BUENOS AIRES

Wednesday, 29 December 2010

Just like the coveted little Ashes urn, I find myself England bound.

However, so unimpressed with Australia’s meek surrender in the cricket and all too aware of the Poms´ penchant for rubbing in their victories, i figure I best delay my arrival in London and instead head for South America until it all boils over.

Minus wisdom teeth and armed with iPod, obligatory autobiography for the plane – this time, Paul Kelly’s ‘How to Make Gravy’  – I say a final farewell to Melbourne and hop aboard Qantas flight 17 to Buenos Aires, Argentina.

In keeping with the cricket theme, I want to acknowledge the part inspiration for this blog.  It seems that our cricketers wield a pen better than a piece of willow. If it’s good enough for Punter to pen a tour diary and Haydos to publish BBQ cook book… then I might as well pen my own travel blog to document my global adventure.

I might even borrow one of their cliche titles for my own journey. JL’s ‘Out of my comfort zone’ springs to mind.

The plan behind the blog is to try and keep my brain semi sharp throughout the trip ahead of hopefully landing some work in London.

.  .  .

Nine hours into the journey and all has gone smoothly* – this is a relief given my strong dislike of flying.

Despite Qantas’ troubles this year, one thing must be said about Australia’s national carrier. Qantas are certainly not ageist when it comes to their recruitment policy. It truly seems like the airline where flight attendants go to die. Nothing against oldies, as there’s no substitute for experience, but Jeepers, in two flights there hasn’t been an attendant (male or female) under 45. Good onya Qantas for providing employment opportunities for our aging population.

And so it has begun. While I am very sad to farewell family, friends and Swars – I am very excited about what awaits in Argentina…. The world ‘s best beef, La Boca and of course Benny Donisi and the boys to see in 2011.

Anyway folks, It’s been a fairly lacklustre debut, much like Xavier Dohertys this summer – but if you’re ever bored under the fluorescents at work then check back for some light reading and a peruse of some pics.

More to come from BA next year.

*nearly got through customs before realising I left my carry-on bag on the x-ray conveyor.

This track was on high rotation on the flight across: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32udqal_lyQ